🔗 Share this article

Whenever curating a ranking of London’s top eateries, one might expect renowned high-end establishments. Yet, nestled near the top among these food giants is a unpretentious salonu located in a far-flung area of northern London.

An Unexpected Recognition

This little Turkish spot, focusing in the culinary delights of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s south coast, has been declared the 4th top restaurant in the metropolis by a respected culinary publication. This honour has made the proprietors totally shocked.

“I am totally surprised,” states a family member, alluding to his parents’ hard graft that led to their humble shop earning such a prominent spot on a notable 99-strong list.

The Character of Simplicity

This small shop, which used to be a basic cafe before its conversion into a sought-after food hotspot, has kept much of its earlier charm. It fits just more than 20 people and, except for the vibrant live cooking performance, the setup remains mostly unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy spot,” comments the owner.

A Star Offering: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is focused on the cuisine, and this establishment certainly succeeds. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a straightforward joy. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is steamed to preserve a tender texture.

The meat is then added into a large pan with spices and oil, which are added in slowly. Once the flavourful mixture heats through, freshly made lavaş—a pliable bread—is laid on top to soak in all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley are added before the tasty meat is rolled neatly inside.

The wrap is typically eaten with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a powerful slap of taste, with soft hints of sumac, bold onions and rich, paprika-red oil tying it all in harmony.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The prominent food critic described this dish “among London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe goes down a treat. It is soaked in less syrup than usual, imparting it a more intense, toastier and more balanced flavour.

Surpassing the Titans

Notably, this unassuming restaurant has outplaced several illustrious three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself just behind the top of the list, just after other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave this place satisfied for less than £25, comparable tasting menus at top-tier establishments can run into significantly more than that price.

The Philosophy of Heart

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants listed and is found well beyond the city’s central zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an costly city. There is an assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and best food but I do not believe in that,” says the owner.

“I feel what is most important is friendliness, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This sentiment is supported by the list’s compiler, who suggested that if he was in a position of authority, he would “require to make every chef in London come to this restaurant as a masterclass, to show them the pitfalls of overcomplication, and to show what is attainable if you do a few – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Path of Hard Work

Unlike most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food didn’t apprentice at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I feel very pleased of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

Numerous restaurants require years to become successful, but this one first started seven years ago. Its acclaim is due to relentless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum was extremely tired. She would source produce in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. All of it is made by hand; she would manage all of this. She is a single mother and she had a life outside work but her friends would come here to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. Each of these responsibilities forged her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he reflects.

A Achievement for the Culture

This restaurant’s success is likely to have meaning beyond its own walls. “In my opinion many people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” concludes the owner, emphasising the greater importance of this gastronomic triumph.