Mouth-watering kebabs, aromatic biryani, and whipped, cloud-like desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has consistently been a haven for gastronomes, with inhabitants and visitors equally swearing by its superb cuisine.
A Global Honor
Last month, The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization honored it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – placing it on a exclusive list of international urban centers and sparking hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's exceptional food. With this title, it enters a international community of over 400 cities across over 100 countries committed to promoting "creativity as a catalyst of development that sustains urban life".
The recognition "demonstrates its profound culinary traditions and dynamic culinary scene," as stated by a representative from UNESCO's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to find a place in this prestigious list of 70 cities internationally.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The recognition for this venerable city is little surprise to its inhabitants or avid food lovers. Many agree with the view that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO designation, this adored, bustling, and diverse city – the capital of India's largest state – is finally in the global gaze for what has consistently shaped its heart: an profound devotion for food.
"'What's for dinner, how will it be cooked' is a constant conversation from morning until night in most homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are often judged by the excellence of food that emerges from your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The City of the Nawabs – as it's popularly called after its 18th and 19th Century wealthy Muslim rulers – is renowned for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were created, perfected, and elevated to sublime levels in their imperial kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were hubs of gastronomic creativity, merging Iranian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were created. Legend has it that the galouti kebab was invented to cater to an elderly nawab who had lost his teeth. His cooks ground the meat with papaya, kesar, and spices and made it so soft that it needed no chewing.
But perhaps the greatest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a low, leisurely heat, with the pot's lid tightly sealed with dough.
More Than Just Famous Dishes
In addition to the obvious kebabs and biryani, the cooks also developed a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is also a haven for vegetarians.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine not only highlights seasonal produce but also provides the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Virtually on countless corners, there are tiny kiosks and kiosks – lesser-known gems that are immensely loved by the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, huge crowds start gathering from early morning at a legendary tea stall to get a steaming cup of milky masala chai, served in clay glasses, along with incredibly soft buns lathered with freshly churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can make their way to a simple joint operating in the old city area of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was founded, the place is still highly popular for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also boasts special treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert savored in the winter. The technique of making it is scientific and involved. The cook beats the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its incredible light consistency.
On cold mornings, street vendors line up in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Many however say that their younger generation are reluctant to learn the craft.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has often said that the city's rich food legacy places it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will materialize only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – influenced by multi-generational food businesses, from modest street carts to bustling restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is believed, will motivate more people worldwide to discover these tales and travel to the city to delight in the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
